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A WINTER WONDERLAND
Staying in a dak bungalow is a bit like being part of a Kipling story. Built in the architectural style of the colonial era, these dark, sturdy cottages once used on postal (or dak) routes are a legacy of the British Raj and often featured in ghost stories and tales of man-eating tigers. The tigers have vanished and the ghosts have beaten a hasty retreat, but thanks to The Ramgarh Bungalows by Neemrana Hotels, the haunting romanticism, unique to these heritage structures, still remains.

Ramgarh, the lesser-known and infinitely more charming cousin of the touristy Nainital (35km), appeared suddenly on the tourist map. Known as the ‘fruit bowl’ of Kumaon, with orchards bursting with apricots, plums and peaches, Ramgarh has all the rustic charms of a Himalayan hideaway with
none of the traffic. And winter, especially, is a special time here. This is when the tourists disappear, the views get sharper in the crisp air and the food tastes better. Ramgarh transforms into a winter wonderland with snow weighing down the boughs of pine trees. 

Neemrana Hotels breathed life into four heritage structures in Ramgarh: the all-white Old Bungalow dotted with pretty flowers like purple velvet salvias from the British era, and the honey stone Writers’ Bungalow, believed to be where Rabindranath Tagore wrote a section of Gitanjali. Even if it doesn't inspire you to write an epic, the Writers’ Bungalow will easily win your vote for the most enchanting cottage ever built. Used as a rest stop by the officers of the Raj, hese two properties, with their stunning architectural detail and location, were prime properties, and, so only English officers were cleared for overnight stay. 

The Indian officers were put up in another, not-so-prestigious property – Ashok Vatika. Today, Ashok Vatika and the adjoining Cliff House have shaken off their inferiority complex and stand out as beautifully-restored cottages with period furniture. The interiors of Cliff House have a distinctly vintage European charm with the all-white distressed look. When you aren’t spending time
gawking at the architecture, head out .

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